Printed Nest

3D Printed Nest

My younger daughter had an and idea that we should make a bird house and she was so persistent that I had to do something about that 🙂
Initially, while we were walking to the school and back we discussed and she had some ideas that we should make it from cardboard, but I told her that the cardboard wouldn’t stand a chance if it rains and that the first rain will ruin the house. I have told her that maybe it is better to have the construction done by combining some 3D printed joints and wooden sticks and we ended the conversation there.

After returning home I have decided to check and see if somebody else had previously done some similar stuff and as usual, there were plenty of designs to choose from. One specific design that caught my eye was Printed Nest. I have really liked the idea that you could stick it on the window and actually see the birds while they feed. Another thing that I liked was the idea of having a community of people that have either printed their own nest or have bought one from the Printed Nest website and after showing her the look of this bird house, the decision was made, we were going to print it.


Since this is two part print the antler seemed to be harder to print, I have devided to start with it. It took over 4 hours on 0.3 mm kayer height to finish this part.

Printed Nest ready to be placed on the window

And 7 hours for the eggy part, so 11 hours altogether. Just in time when my daughter was home after school.

3D Printed Nest back

And finally the printed nest placed on the window. I really like the opening on the back of the nest that helps you to see the birds feeding

3D Printed Nest on our window

Everything came up really nice, not to mention that my daughter was delighted by the look of the bird house and the idea that we have the first one in Macedonia




Naze32 and X8R using SBUS and SmartPort telemetry (Rev5 and older)

Eagerly waiting to finish charging my last pack, I have had everything packed and ready to go out and fly. Unfortunately as soon as the pack was charged it started raining, so since I have already planned to have a rest break I have decided to switch from PPM to SBUS.
Ever since reading this great article on PPM vs SBUS,  I have been thinking of jumping on the SBUS wagon.
I have had a spare X8R to do the job and I have been a bit doubtful if the Naze32 X8R combination will work, especially that I haven’t had the SBUS signal inverter.

Naze32 X8R uninverted signal wire

So after doing some research, I have found here and here  that it is possible to get the uninverted signal from X8R and X4R SB by accessing the second pad from the left on X8R and “A” pad on X4R SB.

I have soldered the signal wire on the second pad and connected it to channel 4 on the Naze32, then I have followed the Oscar Liang’s instructions and everything worked great.

Next, Smart-Port

Naze32 SmartPort channel 5 and 6 soldered

I have soldered channel 5 and 6 on the Naze32 by putting a blob of solder and signal wire between them and connected the wire in the Smart Port signal port.

After updating the Naze32 settings and powering up the transmitter and my mini quad I was disappointed when I have heard the battery voltage reading zero volts 🙁 but I have continued reading and found that the voltage is now referred as Vfas, so I have changed that and still nothing. I have continued reading trough the comments and got lucky, there was a comment from a user named Scoobler that suggested disconnecting the USB, power cycle the transmitter and mini quad and that solved the issue.

Naze32 X8R telemetry screen on the Taranis.

Taranis telemetry screen. You could even read the accelerometer data (AccX and AccY)

Since X8R has those big plastic thingies on the end of the antennas, I had to find a way to secure them to the frame, so I searched for 3D printed holder on Thingiverse and found the appropriate 3D model

FrySky Taranis X8R Antenna Mount

And after 40 minutes with layer height of 0.1mm, the part was finished.

Now the only thing left to do is assemble and tidy up the miniquad and wait for some appropriate weather so I could test it.

ZMR250 and Taranis with Naze32 X8R

Duplicator I3

Adding a Glass Build Plate to my Duplicator i3 3D Printer

I have had my Duplicator i3 for about two months and so far I have been printing with PLA. I have been thinking of adding glass build plate so I could try to print with ABS  filament. ABS requires higher nozzle and build plate temperatures and I was not sure if the sticker could handle that without melting.

Duplicator I3
So, after doing some research on google, I have found that I have to remove the sticker and I have ordered a plate of borosilicate glass from here.
If you own a Duplicator i3, check this  regarding the dimensions and the whole process. Please note that the article is for the older Duplicator version, and there is no sticker over the aluminium build plate.

The item arrived in more or less regular time of one month, well packed and protected with a “Fragile” sticker on it.

Borosilicate glass and paper clips

The glass and four paper clips to hold it in place. Some of the Di3 owners are sticking the glass to the build plate. I have decided to try with paper clips first. Please note that in some cases the clips may interfere with the nozzle or the y axis movement.

Duplicator I3 - removing the sticker

Removing the sticker. It came up relatively easy, but there was a lot of glue left on the build plate.

Duplicator I3 - glue left on the build plate

It took me almost an hour and a bottle of my wife’s acetone in order to clear the glue. I haven’t tried but it may help heating the build plate before removing the sticker.

Duplicator I3 with added glass build plate

Finished cleaning the glue and addint the glass build plate. The binding clips are placed temporarily. If placed like this, the ones on the left side are interfeering with the nozzle head movement.

I needed to lower the printing bed in order to account for the glass plate height. There was enough room to accommodate the glass plate and the springs weren’t contracted all the way. If the glass plate was thicker I may have had to raise the Z axis end stop.

Duplicator I3 - printing on the glass build plate

Printing sample on the glass build plate in order to precisely level the build plate. The left side needed to be raised and the right side needed some lowering.  Note the binder clips in the middle of the glass plate and the handles removed since they were touching the printer frame. If you plan to do this, buy different sizes bind clips so you could try which will fit the best.